A Slow Journey Through the South, One Track at a Time
A New Adventure Begins
There’s something about the start of a long journey that feels almost magical. The anticipation, the uncertainty, the quiet thrill of knowing you have no idea who you’ll meet or what moments will end up shaping your memories. That’s exactly how I felt stepping off the train into Hat Yai, the southern gateway to Thailand, on Day One of my 30 to 60-day journey across the country by train.
This isn’t just any trip — this is a deep dive into Thailand’s hidden rhythms, traveling the same slow, rattling rails that locals use every day to visit relatives, haul market goods, or head home for holidays. In an age of budget flights and expressways, I’m intentionally choosing the slow lane — partly to save money, but mostly to see a Thailand that hides between the tourist hotspots.
Crossing the Border - Malaysia to Thailand
The adventure actually started at Padang Basar, the Malaysian border town where the sleek modern KTM train from Kuala Lumpur comes to an abrupt halt. It was here that I crossed into Thailand — and immediately felt that wonderful gritty, chaotic charm Southeast Asia is famous for.
Cross-border train journeys have a kind of ritualistic charm: clearing immigration in a tiny room with fans whirring lazily overhead, waiting alongside backpackers, monks, and families balancing plastic bags overflowing with snacks. Once stamped in, I hopped onto a local Thai train — an old, creaking beast where the windows slid open to let in the hot air, the seats were hard, and every passing vendor had something fried, skewered, or wrapped in banana leaves for sale.
Fifty baht later — less than two dollars — I rolled into Hat Yai.
First Impressions of Hat Yai
Stepping off the train, Hat Yai hits you with that unmistakable border town energy — a little rough around the edges, a touch chaotic, but with a pulse you can’t ignore. It’s not a polished tourist hub like Chiang Mai or Phuket, but that’s exactly why I wanted to start here. It felt real — a working city where Thai, Malay, and Chinese cultures blend into a mash-up of flavors, smells, and languages.
I could feel the heat rising from the pavement as tuk-tuks honked their way through narrow streets. Vendors shouted in Thai, Malay, and Mandarin, and the air was thick with the smell of charcoal-grilled meats, lemongrass, and something unmistakably fried.
Finding a Place to Sleep - A Traveler’s Gamble
I didn’t book a room in advance — partly because I wanted to see what was available, and partly because winging it is part of the fun. Right outside the station is the Train Hotel, a convenient (if slightly overpriced) option for weary arrivals. Dorm beds go for around 400 baht, while private rooms hover at 750 baht.
But I wanted something a little cheaper — and a little more local. Just a few streets away, I stumbled upon Café Guesthouse, a simple, family-run spot where the owner’s son greeted me with a smile and a “Where you from?” after glancing at my backpack. We chatted for a bit, and after some friendly haggling, I got my double room for 300 baht a night — about $10 USD.
The room was basic but clean, with a creaky fan, a rock-hard mattress, and a bathroom where the shower head sprayed directly over the toilet. Southeast Asian efficiency at its finest.
Internet & SIM Cards - Staying Connected
Before I even unpacked, I headed out to grab a SIM card — because if you’re traveling like this, internet is survival. For just 150 baht, I scored 7 days of unlimited data at 1 Mbps. It’s not lightning fast, but it’s enough to navigate, check train times, and post the occasional Instagram story.
What to Eat in Hat Yai - A Border Feast
Hungry and excited to explore, I wandered into the night market, where rows of stalls stretched under flickering neon lights. Hat Yai’s food scene is a beautiful blend of Thai and Malay cuisines, thanks to its position near the border.
Roti with condensed milk, spicy southern curries, grilled seafood dripping in tamarind sauce, and Halal beef skewers — it was all there. Prices were gloriously low, starting at around 30 baht for smaller dishes and topping out at 100 baht for bigger portions. Dinner for under $3 USD? Welcome to backpacker paradise.
Mornings in Hat Yai - Simple Pleasures
Next morning, I found a tiny open-air cafe just left of the train station. For 54 baht, I had a surprisingly good American breakfast — eggs, toast, a small sausage — and a strong cup of local coffee. Sitting there as tuk-tuks roared past and the morning sun filtered through plastic awnings, I felt that familiar travel contentment — where every detail feels important, simply because it’s all new.
What to See & Do in Hat Yai
Let’s be honest — Hat Yai isn’t bursting with attractions, and that’s okay. There are a few temples, and some great markets, but the real charm is the atmosphere — a working-class border town doing its thing.
If you’re staying longer, there are some fantastic national parks and waterfalls nearby, and local operators offer day trips if you fancy some nature.
Is Hat Yai Safe?
I wandered the streets after dark, camera slung over my shoulder, and never once felt unsafe. Hat Yai felt no different than any small Thai city — busy, but not menacing. Of course, common sense applies: watch your bags at train stations, and lock your room door. But solo travelers, including women, shouldn’t have much to worry about here.
The Real Reason to Visit Hat Yai
For me, Hat Yai’s magic isn’t in attractions — it’s in the transit itself. This is a gateway city, a crossroads, a place where journeys pause and begin again. Every traveler passing through carries a story — a week-long visa run, a pilgrimage home for Eid, a backpacker chasing the next cheap destination. It’s a city made of movement.
Next Stop: Bangkok - The Overnight Train Experience
Leaving Hat Yai, I caught the overnight train to Bangkok, a journey that would take between 12 to 14 hours. There’s something beautiful about these old sleeper trains — the rhythm of the tracks, the transformation from seats to beds, the mix of travelers sharing snacks and stories as the sun sets over rice fields.
The ticket cost me about 700 baht for a 2nd class sleeper with Air Con — worth every penny for the experience alone.
The Start of Something Bigger
As the train rattled north into the night, I couldn’t help but smile. This wasn’t just the first leg of my trip — it felt like stepping into a different way of traveling. One where time slows down, where every stop matters, and where the journey itself becomes the destination.
Follow Along
This is only the beginning. Next stop? Phatthalung — a place few tourists visit, but one I can’t wait to explore. If you’re dreaming of slow, authentic, low-budget travel through the heart of Thailand, subscribe and follow the ride.
This is Thailand by train, and I’m taking you with me — one rattling carriage at a time.
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